Nearly thirty years after wool fabric was introduced to the world of sportswear and casual wear, its archenemy, wool, has made a comeback with the goal of reclaiming its crown. Sporting goods stores have been instrumental in bringing back fleece as a viable alternative to the popular synthetic fleece fabric.
The rebirth of wool
Wool has seen a rebirth with companies promoting a new blend called merino wool which is claimed to be finer and lighter in weight compared to traditional wool. It has even been compared to cotton in texture. Some of the companies benefiting from this wool revolution are Icebreaker Ltd. It is a manufacturer of outerwear from New Zealand and SmartWool is a company from Colorado that specializes in outerwear layers. They claim that customer demand has prompted them to increase their inventory and sales figures have shown a significant increase.
Another outerwear company, Patagonia, has increased the inclusion of wool in the production of its base layers; The base layer is estimated to be 57% merino wool with 43% made up of a blend of wool fabric and recycled materials. “Demand has increased exponentially,” said Chris Howson, a buyer with Paragon Sports who deals in specialty sports products. The company has adjusted its inventory to accommodate wool products which now make up 50% of the base layer business.
Wool and casual wear
One of the biggest attractions of merino wool to consumers is that most items can be paired with casual wear like jeans and skirts without looking “off,” sloppy, or sport-like. Merino wool base layers also outperform synthetic wool fabric in terms of odor control. According to satisfied merino wool user Jake Jefferson: “I wear synthetics and can smell it after five days.” He compared it to using merino wool layers for the weakness of the time and claimed that despite its unpleasant odor, his merino wool shirt was not bad.
Wool and the environment
Merino wool proponents have also raised the enduring environmental issue. Arguments have been made regarding wool being more environmentally sensitive than synthetic wool fabric. Icebreaker CEO and founder Jeremy Moon claims that the chemical finishes used in the manufacture of synthetic wool fade after repeated washings that diminish their functionality. The importance of using recyclable materials in the production of woolen fabric is also called into question because of the energy expended in converting these products for use.
But does wool fabric still win merino wool?
However, woolen fabric still holds a significant market share in the outerwear industry. Synthetic fans like it because it requires little maintenance and is less scratchy. It has also been able to evolve with its customers with the introductions of innovations such as the addition of spandex in some patterns fleece pullovers for a more comfortable fit. Many manufacturers use recyclable materials in their fabrics as well.
Merino wool’s main selling points are its departure from the “uncomfortable” feeling attributed to wool products and its supposed positive environmental impact. Wool product manufacturers have been bold in their marketing strategies and this has created demand from conscious consumers. With that said, merino wool products also cost 30%-50% more than synthetic polyester products. This may attract customers who are attracted to price, quality, and prestige, but it may discourage the average consumer who prefers to keep costs low.